The Corona Lounge Suit. Part 2: hacking the pattern.

This tutorial will show you how to hack your Phoebe Freebie into a knit garment! For a video sew-along, click the Phoebe Freebie Hack link to go to the Pattern Union YouTube channel.

This hack will show you how to convert your Phoebe Freebie into a knit pattern for fabrics with at least 50% stretch, such as cotton Lycra. Because knits stretch, you can go down two sizes to account for the negative ease.

Determine the stretch by measuring a 10cm (4”) length of fabric in the direction of greatest stretch (normally selvedge to selvedge). If it stretches 5cm (2”) then you have 50% stretch.

Hacking the pattern – Pants

The diagrams show a size 12 and are to scale.

1. Draw the new waistline:

· Measure down 12cm (4 ¾”) from the high waist on the center front, front side seam and back side seam.

· Measure down 9cm (3 9/19”) from the center back.

· Draw the new waistline.

2. Redraw the side seam:

· On the front and back: measure down the side seam 45cm (17 11/16”), mark the position.

· On the front and back, measure in 3cm (1 3/16”) along the waistline from the side seam.

· Redraw the side seams on the front and back with a slight curve.

3. Redraw the back inseam:

· On the back crotch seam, measure in 3cm (1 3/16”) from the inside leg (5cm for thin thighs).

· Measure down the back leg inseam 27cm (10 5/8”).

· Redraw the back inseam.

4. Trace off the new front and back trouser pattern. Note: check the inside leg length is correct for you, allowing for a 4cm (1 9/16”) hem.

· Measure the front waist (A).

Hacking the pattern – making a waistband

1. Draw the balance lines:

· Draw a vertical line 14cm (5 ½”) long; this is the center front and center back.

· Square across for the high waistline

· Square across for the high waist line

· Square across for the low waistline

2. Calculations:

· Low waist: (A) – 1cm (3/8”) =

· High waist: {(waist – 8cm/ 3 18”) divided by 4} + 1cm =

Example for a size 12 with a 78cm (30 11/16”) waist:

Low waist: (A) - 1 =

26.1cm – 1 = 25.1cm

High Waist: {(waist – 8cm/ 3 18”) divided by 4} + 1cm =

{(78 – 8) divided by 4) + 1 =

(70 divided by 4) + 1 =

17.5 + 1 = 18.5cm

· Draw the high and low waist measurements.

3. Measure up 3cm (1 3/16”) from the low and high waist.

4. Draw the waistband pattern:

· Draw a curved line for the low waist.

· Draw a curved line for the high waist.

· Draw the side seam.

5. Trace of the pattern, opening it out for the front and back. Label the pattern pieces.

Hacking the pattern – Top

The diagrams show a size 12 and are to scale.

1. Trace the long-waisted front and back top. Curve the top of the ties.

Trace off your pattern pieces; I like to use a mid-weight Vilene, which is non-fusible interfacing.